La maîtresse des chamois
  • La maîtresse des chamois

La maîtresse des chamois

Resorts: Bionaz

Technical Information

Route

Probably the most famous Valpelline ice climb when it comes to medium-high difficulty. Its fame is surely deserved, so much as to be absolutely recommended to all ice climbing enthusiasts with a little spirit of adventure. In fact, we are not exactly in the typical comfort zone of the Cogne valleys; before planning the climb, it is necessary to consider a number of factors including, of course, the snow. It may seem lengthy when approaching it, depending on the road viability to the dam of Place Moulin.
The ice climb is characterised by a big stalactite jump at the start point (of varying difficulty depending on its formation), followed by a higher section that seems easier but anchors need to be applied for safety. Fixed anchors (spits) were present once, but even the solid expansion bolts were wiped away with the mighty rush of the summer waters.
Technically, it is comparable to Stella artice in Valeille … but requiring a greater effort overall.

Level: IV/5
Length: 200 m
First ascent: E. Marlier, C. Rosset 1989
Altitude: 2050 m
Exposure: North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,48074 Lat.: 45,891793 – UTM (ED50) – X: 382213,61 Y: 5083345,98

L1: pretty vertical jump that can be approached along different lines. Belay at the end on ice. There used to be a belay on the rock to the right (spit) that can no longer be used.
L2, L3, L4: the difficulties of the ice climb decrease considerably. You climb belaying at will on ice to the end of the waterfall.

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb (abalakov).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

Note - this information is not directly connected to the Cammino Balteo path but it is part of the Aosta Valley tourist offer.